Mō ngā Kākahu Tapahi Taiaho, He aha ngā mea hei ako māu?
I mua, ko te tapahi reima he mea motuhake ki ngā hoahoa haute couture. Engari i te tīmatanga o te hiahia o ngā kaihoko ki tēnei tikanga, ā, i te ngāwari ake o te whakamahi a ngā kaihanga i te hangarau, kua kitea te hiraka me te hiako tapahi reima i roto i ngā kohinga kakahu kua rite ki te kakahu.
He aha te tapahi rēseri?
Ko te tapahi taiaho he tikanga hanga e whakamahi ana i te taiaho hei tapahi i ngā rauemi. Ko ngā painga katoa – te tino tika, ngā tapahi ma, me ngā taha papanga hiri hei ārai i te pakaru – e tino rongonui ai tēnei tikanga hoahoa i roto i te umanga ahua. Ko tētahi atu painga ko te taea te whakamahi i tētahi tikanga hei tapahi i ngā rauemi rerekē, pērā i te hiraka, te nairona, te hiako, te neoprene, te polyester me te miro. Waihoki, ka mahia ngā tapahi me te kore he pēhanga ki te papanga, ko te tikanga kāore he wāhanga o te tukanga tapahi e hiahia ana ki tētahi mea atu i te taiaho hei pā ki te kākahu. Kāore he tohu kāore i te whakaarohia e toe ana ki te papanga, he mea tino pai mō ngā papanga ngawari pērā i te hiraka me te reihi.
ME PĒHEA TE MAHI A TE RĒHITA?
Koinei te wāhi e tīmata ai ngā mahi hangarau. E toru ngā momo matua o ngā taiaho e whakamahia ana mō te tapahi taiaho: te taiaho CO2, te taiaho neodymium (Nd) me te taiaho neodymium yttrium-aluminium-garnet (Nd-YAG). I te nuinga o te wā, ko te taiaho CO2 te tikanga whiriwhiri ina tae ki te tapahi i ngā papanga ka taea te mau. Ko tēnei tukanga motuhake ko te tahu i tētahi taiaho kaha-nui e tapahi ana mā te rewa, te tahu, te mimiti rānei i ngā rauemi.
Hei whakatutuki i te tapahi tika, ka haere te rēseri mā roto i tētahi taputapu rite ki te ngongo, me te whakaata mai e ētahi whakaata. Ka tae te hihi ki tētahi arotahi arotahi, e aro ana ki te rēseri ki tētahi wāhi kotahi i runga i te rauemi kua whiriwhiria hei tapahi. Ka taea te whakarerekē i te nui o te rauemi ka tapahia e te rēseri.
Ko te taiaho CO2, te taiaho Nd me te taiaho Nd-YAG, he hihi mārama kukū katoa. Heoi anō, nā ngā rerekētanga o ēnei momo taiaho, he pai rawa atu mō ētahi mahi. Ko te taiaho CO2 he taiaho hau e whakaputa ana i te mārama infrared. He ngāwari te mimiti o ngā taiaho CO2 e ngā rauemi rauropi, ā, koinei te whiringa tuatahi ina tae mai ki te tapahi i ngā papanga pēnei i te hiako. Ko ngā taiaho Nd me Nd-YAG, i tētahi atu ringa, he taiaho totoka e whakawhirinaki ana ki te karaihe hei hanga i te hihi mārama. He pai ēnei tikanga kaha-teitei mō te whakairo, te whakarewa, te tapahi me te keri i ngā konganuku; ehara i te mea he haute couture.
HE AHA AU ME MANAWANUI AI?
Nā te mea e maioha ana koe ki te aro nui ki ngā taipitopito me ngā tapahi tika o te papanga, e te hunga e hiahia ana ki te ahua, ko koe. Mā te tapahi papanga ki te laser ka taea te tapahi tino tika me te kore e pā ki te papanga, ko te tikanga ka puta he kākahu kāore i poke i te tukanga hanga. Ka tukuna e te tapahi laser te momo tika ka whiwhi koe mēnā ka mahia ā-ringa te hoahoa, engari i te tere ake, ka nui ake te whai hua me te tuku hoki i ngā utu iti.
Kei reira anō te tautohe e kī ana ko ngā kaihoahoa e whakamahi ana i tēnei tikanga hanga he iti ake te tūponotanga kia tāruatia. He aha ai? Āe, he uaua ki te tārua i ngā hoahoa uaua i roto i te huarahi tika. Ko te tikanga, ko te hunga e tārua ana ka whai pea ki te hanga anō i tētahi tauira taketake, ka whakaaweawetia rānei e ngā tapahi motuhake, engari mā te whakamahi i ngā tapahi laser ka uaua ake mā ngā kaiwhakataetae te hanga i tētahi tauira ōrite.
